Check out the Wiki, there is a link to it on the front page, just to the right of the logo. What follows is from the Wiki, based on Shakespeare catalogues of the period, I'm sure we owe Gaddis for this.
Line Designation |
AFTMA floating line |
AFTMA sinking line |
HEH |
DT4F |
DT5S |
HDH |
DT6F |
DT7S |
HCH |
DT7F |
DT8S |
GBG |
DT9F |
|
2LM, GBF |
WF6F |
|
4M, GAF |
WF8F |
WF9S |
6MH, G2AF |
WF9F |
WF10S |
8H, G4AF |
WF10F |
WF11S |
F |
L3F |
|
E |
L5F |
L6S |
|
L7F |
L8S |
Again, a lot depends on your casting, but I've never been able to get a Shakespeare 8.5 footer to work for me with a DT 6. Usually they start to wake up with a 7wt or better in my hands. I like a slower action than some.
If you want, you can citrus strip the rod and rewrap it. I did that with one when I started rod building/ rebuilding. You may be able to strip the old varnish off from around the wraps, then touch up the wraps with more spar. If you get stripper on the wraps, well, you are rewrapping. Post up some pictures if you can.
I'd of bought it for $6.00 without blinking. These are decent using rods, but due to the heavier than currently popular line weight and since Shakespeare made oodles of them, they don't price well these days. I've one similar that gets used for throwing bass bugs out of a canoe.