The bane of good casting/shooting out line is hinge. Hinge also bites you after you get the line out and are trying to fish.
Weighted flies hinge, sink tips hinge. Fly lines are not made to turn over heavy weighted tips in front of them.
I have done this before, and made up my own 10' deep-water express loop-on tip for snagging sockeye - it worked at correct sockeye snagging distance (close in), but it's a pain.
(I guess it's no more or less of a pain than any other sockeye-snagging rig)
Sinking lines designed like less-buoyant WF flylines are wrong, and everything is wrong about a sink tip.
Where sink tip works is getting it out normal trout-fishing distance (maybe twice your rod length), and high-sticking - also where you're using this, the water is fast enough a fish is going to hook itself.
The big exception is an intermediate density line, where your goal is not to get to the bottom, but hover mid-column in waist-deep water (or countdown in still water and get a little deeper). These basically end up being wind-cheating WF lines.
Sinking shooting heads work. Nothing about them turns to the side - they cast better than WF floating lines - they build up line speed instantly, loop perfectly and shoot beyond perfectly.
I have stood there looking at my Teeny line shooting through the guides and wondering if it was ever going to stop.
I have consistently shot my TS-250 140' in the surf, which includes 25' of backing - I tie clean Allbright knots - I was using a basket. I'm talking every cast.
If you're only shooting out 60-70' with a T-130, etc, it's virtually effortless.
I've done this before, and have 40 years of not speculating, but results.
A T-series line is the straightest possible line between your rod tip and hook point.